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I learned that the traditional Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves two people

14 ounces starchy potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two garlic cloves, skinned and shredded
2½cm piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
Forty milliliters neutral oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for 5 minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then crush or grind to a chunky blend.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Thread the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if desired, you can at this stage store in the fridge the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the heat of your broiler, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.